South east Asia and the Indian sub-continent have seen the rise and fall of mighty Empires and Kings who have been able to build large temple complexes and monuments to showcase their might and power.
A quick stroll through the ruins and courtyard of the royal palace (adjacent to Baphoun) meant we needed to refuel.
After a good Khmer cuisine (which we mostly had for lunch at local family run small businesses) we started the afternoon session.
With temperatures soaring and humidity at more than 85%, we started to walk into the huge complex of Angkor Wat, the largest Hindu (Vishnu) or religious temple ever build. The nine tower represents the Nava Gruha (nine planets) with the sun in the center. The temple is also a representation of Mount Meru, the home of the gods. The central towers symbolizes the five peaks of the mountain, and the walls and moat symbolize the surrounding mountain ranges and ocean.
Day 3:
We started our day by traveling 60 kilometers from Siem Reap to the Kulen Mountains. Phnom Kulen has major symbolic importance for Cambodia as it is the birthplace of the ancient Khmer Empire.
We spent some good time at the two waterfalls. What we saw after this was amazing. Kbal Spean is known for its carvings representing fertility and its waters which hold special significance to Hindus. Just centimeters under the water's surface over 1000 small Shiva linga carvings are etched into the sandstone riverbed. The waters are regarded as holy. It is unique to have such carvings on a riverbed.
After this surreal experience, we continued our day by visiting Ta Prohm, the temple that got famous after the movie Tomb Raider. The trees growing out of the ruins are perhaps the most distinctive feature of Ta Prohm.
Next stop was the unique temple of Pre Rup. It is built using bricks and sandstone. Pre Rup was dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva. The temple's name also means "turn the body". This reflects the common belief among that funerals of royals were conducted at the temple.
Moving from Pre Rup, we visited the Preah Khan. A massive temple which is mainly flat without many levels. Preah Khan has been left largely unrestored, with numerous trees and other vegetation growing among the ruins.
My travel took me to get a glimpse of the Khmer empire (9th through early 15th century). Also know as the Angkor empire, the word 'Angkor' is derived from the Sanskrit word nagara, meaning "city". Angkor period began in the 800s, when the Khmer Hindu monarch Jayavarman II declared himself as a "universal monarch" and lasted until the late 14th century.
The Khmer rulers constructed some of the world's most magnificent architectural masterpieces (temples) and built large water reservoirs called Baray to hold water for its people and support agriculture. Starting with Yasovarman I until Indravarman II, they kept adding and creating marvels.
Most of us have heard about the famous 'Angkor Wat', but I wanted to know more about the other marvels and get a glimpse into present day Cambodia. To my luck, I was able to connect with Asean Angkor Guide team. During my email exchanges (yes you heard it, just email exchanges), I realized Raksa and his team would be the right people to show me what I wanted.
A quick 45 minutes of flying time from Bangkok took us to Siem Reap, the city closest to Ankor Thom, the walled city built by possibly the greatest of the Angkorian kings - Jayavarman VII.
Day 1:
We decided to relax a little and enjoy the local hospitality after a couple of flights and a night with little nap time.
The Le Meridian Angkor did not disappoint us. The open design, warm hospitality of the staff and grand pool helped us sail through the day. A trip to Artisan Angkor and Made in Cambodia street market in the old city was a nice way to wind down the evening.
Day 2:
After having a heavy breakfast (knowing we will need to walk and climb up stairs), ensuring we are comfortably dressed and mentally ready to enjoy the tropical warm day with lots of sunshine and blue skies (we were lucky), we started with the Bayon temple. Bayon is known for its rich decoration and showcases various expressions of Buddha. Its multiple levels structure and various face towers amazed us. Face towers of the Bayon represent the king as the Bodhisattva Lokesvara
Our next stop was Baphoun. It is located in Angkor Thom, next to Bayon. It is a three-tiered temple dedicated to the Hindu God Shiva. The temple measures 120 east-west and 100 meters north-south at its base. It resembles like a pyramid. In the late 15th century, the Baphuon was converted to a Buddhist temple. A 9 meter tall by 70 meter long statue of a reclining Buddha was built on the west end side.
A quick stroll through the ruins and courtyard of the royal palace (adjacent to Baphoun) meant we needed to refuel.
After a good Khmer cuisine (which we mostly had for lunch at local family run small businesses) we started the afternoon session.
With temperatures soaring and humidity at more than 85%, we started to walk into the huge complex of Angkor Wat, the largest Hindu (Vishnu) or religious temple ever build. The nine tower represents the Nava Gruha (nine planets) with the sun in the center. The temple is also a representation of Mount Meru, the home of the gods. The central towers symbolizes the five peaks of the mountain, and the walls and moat symbolize the surrounding mountain ranges and ocean.
Day 3:
We started our day by traveling 60 kilometers from Siem Reap to the Kulen Mountains. Phnom Kulen has major symbolic importance for Cambodia as it is the birthplace of the ancient Khmer Empire.
We spent some good time at the two waterfalls. What we saw after this was amazing. Kbal Spean is known for its carvings representing fertility and its waters which hold special significance to Hindus. Just centimeters under the water's surface over 1000 small Shiva linga carvings are etched into the sandstone riverbed. The waters are regarded as holy. It is unique to have such carvings on a riverbed.
Next was a walk to the Preah Ang Thom, which houses a large statue of Buddha. It was built in the 16th century. Preah Ang Thom is considered sacred and is the worshiping god for the Kulen Mountain.
After a lunch break and we got to see one of the most spectacular temple. The temple's modern name, Banteay Srei also known as citadel of the women or citadel of beauty. Banteay Srei is built largely of red/pink and yellow sand stones. Many carvings into the walls of the temple are related to Hindu gods.
Day 4:
What better can it be to wake up at dark, walk the long complex of Angkor Wat with just a torch to get a glimpse of the sun raise behind the horizon. To our surprise we were with hundreds of others who wanted this experience.
Day 4:
What better can it be to wake up at dark, walk the long complex of Angkor Wat with just a torch to get a glimpse of the sun raise behind the horizon. To our surprise we were with hundreds of others who wanted this experience.
After this surreal experience, we continued our day by visiting Ta Prohm, the temple that got famous after the movie Tomb Raider. The trees growing out of the ruins are perhaps the most distinctive feature of Ta Prohm.
Next stop was the unique temple of Pre Rup. It is built using bricks and sandstone. Pre Rup was dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva. The temple's name also means "turn the body". This reflects the common belief among that funerals of royals were conducted at the temple.
Moving from Pre Rup, we visited the Preah Khan. A massive temple which is mainly flat without many levels. Preah Khan has been left largely unrestored, with numerous trees and other vegetation growing among the ruins.
After an early start to day we decided to call it a day and take some rest. In the evening we attended the Phare Circus of Cambodia. This was a treat and seeing the local talent performing was a pleasure.
Day 5:
We started the day with a boat and canoe ride to Tonle Sap and its mangroves. Tonle Sap is one of the largest fresh water lake in South east Asia.
The fishing village, small floating market and restaurants was an interesting sight.
After the water, it was back on the land and to see the last two temples of the day.
Beng Mealea was built as a Hindu temple, but some carvings depict Buddhist motifs. Its primary material is sandstone and it is largely unrestored, with trees and thick brush thriving amidst its towers and courtyards and many of its stones lying in great heaps.
Neak Pean was originally designed for medical purposes (the ancients believed that going into these pools would balance the elements in the bather, thus curing diseases). It is one of the many hospitals that Jayavarman VII built.
With many more to see, we had to call it a day and keep something for the next time. This trip made us think how powerful, knowledgeable and scientifically gifted our earlier generations were.
There is so much to see in this beautiful country. Here are a few tips that I would like to share based on my experience along with my family for anyone trying to visit Cambodia
1. Plan your trip in advance. Make sure you have a local guide or tour company. Highly recommend Asean Angkor Guide. They were professional, passionate and extremely considerate. If you looking for a customized tour based on your interest, they are awesome
2. Pace your trip. There is a lot of walking and climbing (if you want to see and understand details). I wouldn't recommend a 1-2 day trip if you have small kids.
3. Light and comfortable clothing and shoes are a must as you will walk
4. Since it is a tropical country, temperatures will be warm and humidity can be high. Please drink a lot of water
5. If you have liking for specific food, would recommend to stay in a nicer hotel which can cater to your palate
6. Please bring in US Dollar currencies and lots of them (smaller denomination). This is almost the default currency accepted. BTW they don't accept old and torn/weathered currency notes
7. Credit cards are not accepted unless you are in a big hotel and in select restaurants. Good news, the ATMs do dispense US dollars if you need it
This has been a life time experience for me and my family and I am sure many of you may like it.
Until next time Arkoun.
